TARAX STUD RABBITRY
General Information
Most information is common sense when looking after rabbits, much can be found on the internet using search engines such as Google etc. There are also many sites on particular breeds you can read up on or even join, forums are a brilliant way to chat to other like minded people as well. Networking sites such as facebook (aged 13 to join) will also have individual pages dedicated to specific breeds, again with people ready to offer advice and help....however for a brief intro we hope the following is of some help :)
Housing
Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. We recommend that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--10 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Medium sized rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch, small rabbits (Netherland Dwarfs, Mini Lops) in a 3' x 2' hutch, and large breeds (French Lops, British Giants) in a 5' x 2'6" hutches. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6" off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection with an old blanket at night in very cold weather. REMEMBER--rabbits need good ventilation, you cannot therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.
If you keep you rabbit indoors, make sure you rabbit proof your home. Rabbits habitually chew and scratch at anything and everything. You will need to protect electrical, telephone, aerial cables etc. House rabbits can be litter trained, and best results are usually obtained if your rabbit is neutered.
Bedding
Hay, straw (Barley straw or chopped straw such as MediBed or Bedown) and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages.
Hay tends to be better for munching on and is less absorbent than straw.
Some newspaper print can be poisonous to rabbits if eaten, so do not use as a liner if your rabbit does this.
ALL BEDDING should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch regularly washed, scrubbed and disinfected.
Feeding
Rabbits have very sensitive digestive systems and are prone to diarrhoea (scours). Baby rabbits are particularly prone to a condition called Mucoid Enteritis and is nearly always fatal. The rabbit starts passing clear or yellowish mucous from it's back passage, may not eat very much and spends much of it's time crouched by it's water bottle or in a corner. You may also notice the rabbit grinding it's teeth, this can be a sign of pain. Dehydration and death often occurs within 5 days and treatment is generally unsuccessful. Sadly, this condition is found in many baby rabbits purchased from Pet Stores because of the extreme stress they have undergone in being separated from their mothers, sent to the pet store with unfamiliar food, and then on to their new home with yet another change of feed.
Good quality hay must always be available to maintain healthy teeth and a healthy digestive system. Ready prepared feeds provide all your rabbits dietary needs, along with fresh fruit and vegetables (greenstuffs), but do not give potatoes (they have toxic parts) or lettuce (can cause diarrhoea). Extra vitamins and salt licks are not generally required.
Changes in diet must be made slowly (greenstuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets.
Fresh water MUST be available at all times and renewed daily.
To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their food as possible, they digest their food twice. They do this by eating their own caecal pellets. These are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing.
Toys
Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household.
Toys can include some of the following … if you use your imagination, this list can be endless …
Rattles;
Squeaky toys;
Balls;
Toilet roll tubes;
Plastic flower pots;
Yoghurt pots;
Budgie toys;
Cardboard boxes with entry holes cut into them;
Dog baskets turned upside down;
Wide bore plastic pipes cut into short lengths;
Drink cans with pebbles inside;
Untreated wicker drink mats, baskets etc (can be stuffed with hay)